Did you know that I have my own wine club? I do! I’ve partnered with my friends at The Cellar d’Or in Ithaca, NY to bring the best and most interesting wine from New York and beyond straight to your door. We call it “The Cork Club” and I pick two wines each month that never exceed $60 total before shipping. These aren’t bin ends or mass-produced garbage. These are the wines that I’m drinking myself and most excited about — from producers you’re never going to get anywhere else. Sign up today!
This month’s picks may surprised a lot of you. Over my 15+ years of writing about (mostly New York) wine, I’ve taken more than my fair share of swipes at both merlot and chardonnay — and with good reason, I think. A lot of the East Coast wines in both categories suffer from too much oak, not enough terroir or are just plain boring or over-priced.
Of course, it’s also dangerous to speak about any topic with broad generalizations. There are always exceptions to every rule. These wines exemplify those exceptions perfectly.
There is a lot of merlot being grown on Long Island. It makes up almost a third of the plantings here, and unlike 20 or even 10 years ago, you won’t find may outright bad wines — you know, the kind you don’t even want to put into your mouth. But still, a wine being drinkable isn’t enough. Sure, I still taste some really delicious merlot-based wine from Long Island, but most of it is priced too high to work well for this club. Then I came across Lieb Cellars 2015 Merlot Reserve in a tasting of two dozen Long Island merlots. Intensely fruity on the nose with raspberry and blackberry fruit sprinkled with just a bit of dark chocolate and black licorice, it shows what can be so great about North Fork merlot when oak is used judiciously (only 10 months in this case). Juicy and supported more by acidity than tannins, this is the kind of drink-now merlot you need to have on hand — and it’s priced so that you can always have one around.
I’ve become somewhat famous (infamous?) for my feelings on domestic chardonnay. I generally don’t have much use for it. Too much oak. Too much alcohol. Not enough acidity. Not expressive at all. Boring! And yet here I am, picking Red Tail Ridge Winery 2016 “Sans Oak” Chardonnay to send your way. Just like the Lieb, this is a great value and because it wasn’t beaten with oak, the wine actually tastes like it comes from the Finger Lakes, which it does. There is a flinty, almost smoky edge to bright citrus and apple fruit aromas that lead into a palate that is juicy and fresh with a melange of apple, pear and citrus flavors that are balanced nicely by acidity and a faint minerally note that stands out on the finish. As it warms a bit, there is an interesting spicy note too.
You may not see much merlot or non-sparkling chardonnay in the club anytime soon, but these wines are too delicious to miss. Drink well!